Irish Independent / November 2005
Star of India

Pinky Lilani, a UK-based cookbook writer and TV chef and advisor to Sharwoods in Indian cuisine, was in Ireland for the celebration of the Indian Festival of Light. She was born in Calcutta and educated at the Irish Sisters of Charity convent, which has left her with an Irish lilt.

In 1977, after having married, she moved to London. When she was growing up, her family's brilliant cook was very secretive about his recipes. But as she was leaving home, worried she might starve, he gave her a crash course in cooking.

This spurred her interest in Indian food culture. She is now an acknowledged expert in this field.

Last week Pinky offered to cook dinner in my kitchen. In just two hours, she set before us a delicious fish stew called Machi Ka Salna along with Masala Wali Aloo - Bombay spiced potatoes - chicken do piaza, pilau rice, a pile of naan breads, and a dhal made from three lentil types.

We started with an innovative smoked salmon dish, in which bite-size chunks of fresh salmon are marinated in a spicy chilli and coriander mix. After half an hour a piece of red-hot charcoal is placed in the bowl and cardomom pods and oil poured over it. The charcoal starts to smoke furiously, and a tight-fitting lid is clamped on for 15 minutes before the salmon is cooked off in a pan. Amazing.

Chicken Do Piaza
Serves four

This, Pinky says, is a very popular dish, and one where onions are the dominant flavour. 'Do' means two and 'pyaz' means onions. Serve with chapatis (flat bread) or naan bread.

Ingredients
6 tbsp vegetable oil, plus extra if needed
900g chicken on the bone, divided into 8-10 pieces
2 large onions
6 shallots, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 tbsp puréed garlic / 15 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
1 teaspoon puréd ginger
1/2 teaspoon chilli powder
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
2 tbsp coriander and cumin powder mixed together
1 cardomom pod, cinnomon stock, bay leaf and clover (whole garam masala)
1 tbsp tomato puré
5 tbsp natural yoghurt
pinch garam masala powder
15g (1/2oz) finely chopped fresh coriander leaves
salt

Method
First quickly peel and prepare the two onions - one is finely chopped as normal, the other sliced lengthways from root to tip. Heat the oil in the pan and fry the chicken for three minutes on each side. Remove and set aside. In the same oil fry the onion you have sliced lengthways. Remove when light brown and drain on kitchen paper.

Now, adding more oil if needed, fry the finely chopped onion until golden brown. Then add the shallots, garlic, ginger, salt, turmeric, chilli powder, corainder-cumin powder and the whole garam masala.

Fry over a high heat, adding tablespoons of water to prevent the mixture sticking and burning.

When you can see the oil beginning to separate from the spices at the edge of the pan, add the tomato purée and chicken, followed by the yoghurt and 100ml (3 1/2 fl oz) water.

Leave to simmer until the chicken is tender, which will take about 30 minutes. To serve, garnish with the fried sliced onions, a pinch of garam masala and fresh coriander.

Chef's tip
Spice up your rice by stirring in 1 teaspoon of cumin seeds, a bayleaf, a couple of cloves and two cardomom pods which you've fried in one tablespoon of oil until the seeds have popped.